Upper Michigan Mid-Summer Run

This was one of those trips that wasn’t planned until last minute. In fact, I wasn’t planning on a long ride until the fall. The summer has been busy, so this little gem of an opportunity turned out to be a nice break! I took the Goldwing on her maiden voyage for this trip. It took me a while to configure the bike and get it set up for a multi-day ride. I have my set-up for the BMW RT down pat, and I know where everything goes. The Goldwing is a little different because it has a massive top case, but the side cases are smaller. Also, the Motofizz seat bag doesn’t fit very well on the wing. No matter how hard I tried, the Motofizz bag just wouldn’t fit. Fortunately, the Kuryakyn Momentum Road Warrior bag that I had tucked away in my closet fits perfectly! I was actually going to sell the Kuryakyn bag because it’s too big and bulky for the RT…but it tucks nicely into the rear seat of the Goldwing and provides a nice back rest.

The Kuryakyn Momentum Road Warrior bag is a perfect fit for the Goldwing. It’s a high quality bag with a ton of room.

This trip was also a little different due to the fact that my wife and the two youngest kiddos joined me. My wife drove her SUV with the kids, and I rode the wing. Although I rode alone and at my own pace, we would meet each night and sometimes for meals while on the road. The two week trip covered about 3,500 miles, and we were able to spend quality time with the family.

DAY 1

It was still dark when I pushed the Goldwing out of the garage. The clock showed 5:45am, and the roads were still wet from the heavy rain last night. It was already hot and humid…pretty typical for late June in South Carolina. I hopped on the wing and hit the starter button. The generator-starter burbled for a second and the big six cylinder engine came to life. I was immediately reminded how quiet and subdued the wing is. I usually pull my bikes out of the garage before starting them so I don’t wake up the wife and kids…that’s not an issue with the wing. She fires up and quickly settles into a smooth and quiet hum.

I turned on the fog lights, and headed west towards Columbia. More rain was forecasted later in the morning and I wanted to be as far away as possible before it hit. My wife and kids planned on leaving later in the morning. They planned on staying in a hotel tonight which meant I would be camping solo.

The 1.5 hour ride to Columbia was uneventful. I took the interstate and let the wing do what it does best…munch the miles. I appreciated the stability and ease that comes with riding the wing. The buttery smooth engine and torque just whisks you along. There were plenty of moments where I found myself needlessly bracing for harsh crosswinds due to passing a semi-truck. On most bikes you feel “dirty air” when you pass a big rig. The air pushes you around and it can be a bit unnerving at times…but on the wing you don’t notice a thing…just poised and steady as it zips by the semi. I came to the conclusion that the Goldwing is probably the best bike out there for interstate travel.

I arrived at my usual pit stop in Columbia…a Starbucks that’s right next to a Shell gas station. I stopped for a tank of gas, a cup of coffee and a breakfast sandwich.

After my break I settled into a comfortable clip as I worked my way towards Lexington, KY. I alternated between backroads and highways, and it felt amazing to once again have my knees in the breeze! The weather was perfect…partly cloudy and not too hot. Can’t ask for anything better than that!

I rode an entire tank without stopping for a break…an easy task on the wing, albeit the seat begins to get a little uncomfortable if you ride tank to tank. I may have to do something about the seat. Out of all the bikes I have owned so far, only the BMW K1600 Grand America provided a perfectly comfortable seat from the factory for my bony butt. All of the others (including the Goldwing) cause discomfort after a couple hundred miles.

I finally stopped to refuel and for an early dinner when I was just outside of Lexington. It was late afternoon so I began looking for a place to camp. I found a small mom and pop campground just north of Frankfurt, KY…about a 45 minute ride.

I finished eating and made my way to the campground. Northern Kentucky is a beautiful place to ride! Everything is lush and green and the country side is riddled with hills.

Rolling through the country side of Kentucky

I pulled up to the Kentucky River Campground around 6pm. The friendly host checked me in and let me set up next to the river. I set up camp, made a cup of coffee, and relaxed while watching the sun set. All was quiet in the campground except for the crickets and a few croaking bullfrogs.

Home Sweet Home for the evening!

The setting sun turned the western sky fire-orange, then grey, and finally black. As darkness settled in the fireflies woke from their slumber. At first there were only a few, and before long the entire campground was lit up with thousands of fire flies bumbling their way through the night. There were so many they literally lit up the surrounding woods and the campground. It was surreal and beautiful!

I was getting ready to crawl into my tent and call it a night when I got a call from my wife.

“Hey babe! I don’t feel like booking a hotel tonight and the kiddos don’t mind camping in the car, so we’re on our way to you.”

“Sweet! Come on down! Are you sure you want to camp?”

“Yeah we’ll be fine! I have an air mattress and we’ll just put the seats down.”

“10-4…I’ll be waiting for you guys.”

To be clear, it’s not the discomfort of my wife that I worried about. Don’t get me wrong, like most ladies she loves the comfort of a 5 star hotel. But that woman is tough as nails as she was raised in the back country of Alaska. She can definitely handle her own in the bush and will run circles around most folks in that department. Plus the Kentucky River Campground ain’t exactly roughing it as it has clean bathrooms and it’s quiet. It’s the kids that I worried about. They’re city slickers through and through. But perhaps a little car camping would be good for building character!

They were still about 30 minutes out, so I walked over to the campground entrance and waited for them. The fireflies kept me company and entertained…you can’t find solitude like that anywhere except for out in the country. I took a moment to thank God for my many blessings.

Before long, the headlights from my wife’s SUV cut through the darkness as she pulled up. She set up camp next to mine. We worked quickly to get everything situated, and kept our voices low so we wouldn’t disturb the other campers. It only took about 20 minutes and we were all tucked in. The sound of crickets serenaded us to sleep.

DAY 2

Mornings in the Kentucky River Campground are just as quiet and peaceful as the evenings. I definitely recommend this place if you’re a long rider looking for a clean and cheap place to pitch a tent near Frankfurt. We woke up early and we were ready to hit the road before the other campers stirred. The kids did well and didn’t complain. They were pumped about their little evening adventure, and it warmed my heart to see them excited about something real!

Morning mist in Kentucky

It was cool and hazy when I pulled out of the campground. The Goldwing was eager to roll as I pointed the headlights northwest. The cool morning air felt amazing and I was enjoying the ride. There’s something special about riding in the early mornings…the smells of nature are stronger and everything feels fresh.

I was hoping to make it to southern Wisconsin by nightfall…a long haul to say the least. I can do a 500+ mile day on my BMW RT with ease. I’m intimately familiar with all of the nuances of that bike. I also know all of the tricks to keep me comfortable on long hauls. I’m not quite there yet with the Goldwing, so this 500 mile day was going to be a great way to work out the kinks.

Meanwhile my wife and kids planned on a more direct route and stuck to the interstate. My wife is all about making good time, where I stick to the back roads and enjoy the scenery and the ride.

The earth began to flatten once I rolled into Indiana. I kept working my way northwest, and stayed far away from Indianapolis so traffic wasn’t an issue. It was hot, and I was thankful for the excellent ventilation of the Aerostitch jacket and pants…as long as I was moving I was comfortable.

I stopped for a quick water break and refueled at a mom and pop convenience store. I cleaned off the windshield and the headlights since a whole mess of grasshoppers and bugs made the wing look like it was involved in a crime scene. Then I spent a few minutes in the comfort of the tiny gas station and stood under the AC vent. The place was empty besides me and the elderly lady behind the counter who was feverishly working on a crossword puzzle. Like most folks in the midwest, she was very friendly and curious…she said she was born and raised here and that almost everyone left except for the Amish. It’s beautiful country indeed, and I can see why the Amish chose this place!

A hot and lazy summer afternoon in the heart of Indiana’s Amish country

After I drank a couple bottles of water and stretched my legs, I mounted the wing and hit the road, leaving the kind lady behind the counter alone so she could continue working on her crossword puzzle. I continued working my way northwest towards Bloomington, IL. Traffic was light so I was able to hammer out the miles at a good clip with the wing. I alternated my feet from the highway pegs to the passenger pegs and shifted my weight often to avoid cramping and butt burn. It’s amazing how slight adjustments can prolong the comfort of the ride.

It was mid-afternoon when I crossed the Illinois state line. The prairie sky was filling with dark clouds. It’s nothing new here in the midwest…hot and humid summers often produce violent weather. I had the right gear and I wasn’t worried about it.

Storm clouds brewing in the heartland

I stopped in Bloomington for gas, a quick snack and some more water. I looked at the doppler radar on my weather app since the sky began looking more and more menacing. I was heading due north towards Rockford, and it looked like I was heading straight into the worst of it. Rockford was under a severe thunder storm and tornado warning until 10 pm. However, if I rode further west and then north I could possibly avoid the worst of it. It would only add an hour or so to my ride, so I decided to choose the less volatile route.

I put the rain cover on the Kuryakyn seat bag to protect my camping gear, and hit the road riding due west in an attempt to avoid the storm. After a while I shot north and rolled through the quiet prairies of Illinois. I was on some of the straightest and flattest roads I have every seen. Farm after farm passed by and I seemed to be the only person on the road. There’s something special and about the vast and peaceful farmland in the heart of America. It feels like home.

The clouds hung low and dark. The air began to get cooler and the wind picked up…I was getting closer to the storm.

The wife called to check in…she was about 30 minutes ahead of me.

“It’s looking pretty bad up here and I’m worried about you being on the bike!”

“I’ll be alright…I have proper gear…and I’ll pull over if it gets too bad”

“Okay…I got us a hotel in Dodgeville, Wisconsin…is that too far or do you think you can make it?”

“I’m on a Goldwing babe…of course I can make it!”

I had about 3 hours to go, and to my right the sky looked dark and angry…yet somehow I was still riding in sunshine.

The sky to the north looked angry and menacing

Eventually my luck skirting the edge of the storm ran out. The temperature suddenly dropped about 15 degrees and massive rain drops began slapping my helmet and windshield…it stung as they hit but it also felt good after riding in the heat and humidity all day. It never poured down on me though as I seemed to be right on the edge of the downpour, I could see it throwing down in the fields just to my right, but I was just getting a spattering of big rain drops. The sky bellowed with thunder and lightning was flashing all around me.

The sky to my right looked crazy with a dark shades of grey and green and suddenly I saw it…it was twisting and darker than the rest of the sky. Then it formed into a crooked black finger and reached down and touched the earth…a tornado!!

A tornado…and I was the only damned fool on the road

The wind began whipping me from the right side as debris, dust, and God knows what else was ripped from the ground and pulled into the tornado…thankfully I was far enough away to only have stuff like grass, pieces of corn husk, and hay reach the road and skip across it like tumble weeds. Then, as fast as the finger formed, it retracted back into the sky…it probably only lasted a minute or so but it was absolutely terrifying!!

It took me another hour of riding through intermittent showers before I was finally north of the storm and entering the wonderful state of Wisconsin. It was much cooler and the skies ahead were clear…a welcomed sight!

My wife called to check in on my status…I told her about the tornado and she stopped in her tracks. I told her not to worry and I would meet her at the hotel. She would have none of it…she insisted on following me the rest of the way to make sure I was safe. No sense in arguing. I just acknowledge that I’ve got the best wife on the planet!!

The rest of the ride to the hotel was uneventful and dry. We finally pulled into the hotel parking lot around 7:00 pm. I logged about 550 miles of riding through heat, humidity, crazy weather, and a nice cool evening. The wing made the ride easy…yet I was happy to be off the bike.

DAY 3

We slept in this morning and enjoyed breakfast at the hotel. Thankfully the sky was clear and no crazy weather was in the forecast. In fact, the temp was quite cool, and the morning sun was begging me to hit the road and get my knees back in the breeze!

However, my wife had other plans. We were only a few miles south of the infamous House on the Rocks museum and she was itching to see it. They opened at 9am, so I figured a little pit stop wouldn’t put us too far behind schedule. The goal today was Marquette, MI, where we would stay for a few days to visit family.

But first…a quick stop at the House on the Rocks Museum

The “Infinity Room” at the House on the Rocks. A unique experience to say the least.

We were hungry by the time we finished our adventure at the House on the Rocks Museum. The museum is much larger than we expected, and it was almost 1 pm by the time we were on the road again. We decided to stop for a lunch break at the original Culver’s in Sauk City, WI…just a few miles north of the museum. It was well worth the stop and definitely the best Culver’s I’ve ever had!

Lunch at the original Culver’s is a worthy stop!

We continued our way north. We had to pick up the pace in an attempt to make it to Marquette before dark. Fortunately, this time of year in the north woods it stays light until late in the evening. But whether it’s light or dark, the deer would be out and about, and I didn’t want to meet one while on the Goldwing.

I stretched the legs out on the wing and rode a lot faster than I should have. It was already late evening by the time I crossed the Michigan border and rolled into the U.P. The air was cool and the night sky was pink and orange, almost like a lantern guiding me home. The pointed tops of the pine trees silhouetted against the night sky and I could smell cedar…it felt good to be back in my old stomping grounds. I had a wonderful childhood and I am proud to be a “Yooper!”

Deer were everywhere, and I was thankful for the bright lights on the Goldwing. I hugged the center line of the road and took my time…keeping my eyes peeled for critters. I turned the heated grips and seat setting to the max as the temp on the Goldwing read 52. I actually got a chill for the first time on the trip! The heated grips and seat work amazingly well on the Goldwing…and I was comfy and warm in no time at all.

It took a couple of hours of dodging deer and riding in solitude before I finally pulled into Marquette. We checked into the hotel and promptly fell asleep…we were exhausted, and looked forward to our U.P. adventures.

DAY 4 & 5

Day 4 and 5 were spent visiting family and showing my wife and kids my hometown. I didn’t do any riding. We all piled into my wife’s SUV instead. We had a great time and my only regret is that we didn’t spend more time exploring and spending quality time with family!

My wife and I were walking in downtown Marquette when someone started randomly honking at us…it was my pops!

Went to visit my big brother at his farm

Took my son for his first tractor ride. He still talks about that ride and will eagerly tell anyone who will listen…

Big Gus…the largest working chainsaw…a pride and joy of my hometown

Not to be outdone…Big Ernie (the largest firing rifle) also stands proud in my hometown

My brother let me take his Hellcat for a rip! Insanely fast and powerful and a blast to drive!

Introduced the wife and kids to “da pasty.” Perhaps I hyped it up a little too much…I think they were expecting a Michelin star type of meal

A family of ducks enjoying the calm waters of Lake Superior on a beautiful summer evening.

My son hunting for rare rocks. He’s a self proclaimed “Rock Hound” and was determined to find a Yooperlite Rock

My beautiful wife enjoying the sunset over Lake Superior…one of the prettiest scenes on the planet and I didn’t know which one to watch

The crystal clear waters of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Lots of laughs, good food, and good company. I’m very thankful for my big and loving family along with my many blessings!

Enjoyed our last evening in the Upper Peninsula in this neat little lake house

DAY 6

Today was our last day in the U.P. We were heading to my father-in-law’s house in Alpena, MI. It was only about a 6 hour ride so we weren’t in a hurry to get on the road. My wife wanted to check out the Pictured Rocks National Forest, and I wanted to enjoy a little U.P. riding before we worked our way south. We ultimately decided to go our separate ways and meet up in Grand Marais for lunch. I would go riding with my brother, and my wife and kiddos would go to Pictured Rocks. A win-win!

My brother and I went for a little rip. It felt good to be riding together again! He is on his Yamaha Tenere 700…a fine adventure bike!

My brother and I have had some awesome rides together. We rode the Hill Country of Texas and explored the Carolinas and Georgia on motorcycles. We’re essentially the same size and we have the same taste in bikes so our bikes and equipment are easily interchangeable. My brother took me on a nice little loop through the U.P. countryside. He took the Goldwing and I took his Yamaha. It was a nice and relaxing ride!

Once our morning ride was complete, it was time for me to high-tail it to Grand Marais to meet up with the wife and kids. I didn’t want them to have to wait for me, and I had about a 2 hour ride to get there. Fortunately the traffic was light and the weather was perfect! Riding along the Lake Superior coast on a Goldwing is about as prime as it gets. It was both stunningly beautiful and relaxing.

The wing made quick work of the slower moving cars and RV’s that were on the road, and I pulled into the tiny town of Grand Marais about 10 minutes after my wife and kids arrived. She bought a bunch of pasties, and we enjoyed our lunch while sitting on the beach.

The quiet Lake Superior beach near Grand Marais

Eating a pasty on a Lake Superior beach…it doesn’t get any more “Yooper” than that!

We finished our lunch and hit the road again. We worked our way towards St. Ignace, where we would cross the Mackinac Bridge “The Mighty Mac” and roll into the lower peninsula of Michigan towards Alpena. The ride to St. Ignace was quiet. Folks, I regretted not riding a lot more of the U.P. It’s nice to ride where there’s very little traffic and amazing scenery!

I stopped for gas and an early dinner in St. Ignace, which is a little town on the north end of the Mackinac Bridge. Then I paid the $4 toll, and began my trek across the Mighty Mac. It was my first time riding a motorcycle across the 7 mile bridge, and I was thankful it was a calm day. It can get sketchy when it’s windy…even to the point where the bridge shuts down to motorcyclist and high profile vehicles.

Crossing the “Mighty Mac” on a motorcycle…I can cross it off the bucket list

I crossed into lower Michigan and continued my way to Alpena. We finally pulled into “Grandpa’s” driveway right before dark…he was waiting on his porch and was happy to see us!

DAY 7, 8, 9, 10, & 11

We spent the next several days relaxing at grandpa’s house. We ate a lot of delicious bbq, enjoyed the 4th of July festivities, and spent lots of time boating on the lake.

Gramps let me captain his pontoon boat…I felt pretty special because he usually doesn’t let anyone else touch his boat!

Gramps took a nap while I was navigating the boat…or perhaps he couldn’t bring himself to watch someone else operate his vessel. Either way it was a relaxing afternoon on the lake.

We joined the 4th of July parade using Gramps side by side.

Getting lined up for the parade. Nothing screams Americana like a small town parade

When the Independence Day festivities finally ended, it was time to pack up and make our way back to South Carolina. I took some time to clean the Goldwing, check the fluids, and load it up so all I had to do in the morning is start her up and hit the road.

DAY 12

It was still dark when I woke up. My wife and kids were still asleep and I did my best not to disturb them. I figured I’d let my wife and kids sleep in…they are in a car so driving in the morning, afternoon, or evening doesn’t really matter. As for me, I like riding in the early mornings when it’s still cool.

I thanked my father-in-law for the hospitality, mounted the Goldwing, and headed due south towards Bay City. It was cool and overcast and the roads were practically empty since it was Sunday morning.

It was cool and quiet Sunday morning…perfect for putting the knees in the breeze!

I rode until the fuel light came on…just north of Flint. I stopped for gas and breakfast and hit the road again. The plan was to meet the wife in Columbus, OH, where we would decide where to stay for the evening. I hopped on the interstate once I rolled into Flint and took the freeway the rest of the way to Columbus. It was a drama free and somewhat boring ride.

Took this picture at a rest stop somewhere in OH…the soil is fertile here and the little decorative garden plants are massive!

It was mid afternoon by the time I rolled into Columbus. It was hot…I mean really hot! The temp gauge on the wing showed 94, and the humidity made it almost unbearable. I met up with the wife and kids at a Cracker Barrel and we ate an early dinner. It felt good to relax in the AC while we came up with a plan for the evening. We decided to book a hotel in Athens, OH, which was about an hour ride southeast. The best part is that Athens is in the heart of Ohio’s Appalachia Valley…an awesome riding area!

I pulled into the little town of Athens just as it was getting dark. We checked into the hotel and sleep came quickly as the oppressive heat seemed to zap all of my energy.

DAY 13

Home from our hotel in Athens, OH is about an 8hr ride. If I pushed it I could easily make it. But I wasn’t ready for my trip to end, and I was literally surrounded by amazing riding roads. My wife and I decided that we would meet in Boone, NC and stay there for the evening. She wanted to do some shopping with the kids on the way, and I wanted to ride.

After doing a little research, I decided I would ride the “triple nickel”. It’s a big loop on Hwy 550, Hwy 555, and Hwy 50. It didn’t disappoint!

Ohio’s “Triple Nickel” is an amazing loop that takes about 2 hours. Plenty of leans!

No traffic, rolling hills, curvy roads, and beautiful farmland = perfection

Passed through a few little towns along the way.

Took a break next to this old barn and relaxed in the shade.

Lots of little churches in Ohio’s Appalachia valley. I imagine this parking lot is filled to the brim come Sunday morning

The ride was amazing! It was so peaceful, and the roads are in good shape. I highly recommend riding southeast Ohio if you’re in the area…I’ll definitely be back!

Once I completed my loop, I crossed the Ohio River and rolled into West Virginia. I stopped for a water break and went for a little walk in the little town of Ravenswood, which is just across the WV border.

This neat little house was built in the 1850’s, and restored by the locals.

This huge chair sits along the bank of the Ohio River just outside of Ravenswood

Near the massive chair sits this tiny library…complete with a chimney and an American flag.

And books of course!

After my break, I hit the road and worked my way towards Charleston, WV for lunch. West Virginia is a very underrated state for riding. It’s full of elevation changes and twisty roads. It’s an awesome state for riding!

Sadly, while riding you will be reminded of the state of affairs in rural West Virginia. I’ve never seen so many abandoned houses. It’s crazy to see the beautiful little farms and thriving little towns that are just across the river in Ohio, while folks are on the struggle bus a few miles away in West Virginia.

An abandoned home somewhere in West Virginia…an all too common sight here

I thoroughly enjoyed my ride in West Virginia. I think this state gets overlooked, and I want to explore it some more. Everyone I’ve interacted with was extremely friendly and willing to strike up a conversation!

I rolled into Charleston around 3 pm after taking a bunch of back roads and detours. Some of the riding was slow since a few of the roads were in really rough shape. But the scenery was well worth it!

I stopped at a pizza joint in the heart of down town Charleston and had a funny interaction with a waitress. She was probably in her early to mid twenties and she was quite eager to talk to me…even blushing as she did so. She kept calling me “sweetheart” and was laying it on pretty thick. She asked all the usual questions like where I was from, where I was going, etc. Then she saw the screen saver photo on my phone (it’s a picture of my wife) and commented on how pretty she was. She asked if she was my girlfriend and I told her that she was my wife. I told her that we were meeting in Boone, and heading home to SC to be with our granddaughter.

She was genuinely shocked.

“Wait…you’re a grandpa??”

“Yup…and my wife and I have 9 children between the two of us.”

I wish I took a picture of her face…it was shock, confusion, and perhaps a bit of shameful realization. The pizza was good, and the waitress was all business with no more flirting after realizing that I was a grandpa with a wife and nine kiddos.

After the pizza I headed across the street and enjoyed some homemade ice cream while I sat in the shade. Charleston is a neat little town, and worth a visit if you’re ever riding through WV.

Relaxing and enjoying some home made ice cream to cool off

I rolled out of Charleston with a full belly, a full tank of gas, and a few more hours of riding to get to Boone. Every road I took in West Virginia was amazing! The only downside was that I hit a lot of construction on Hwy 23. There were a few areas where it was only one lane, and I had to sit and wait for the escort vehicle to let us through. Sitting in that hot sun was rough. But that’s expected when riding in the summer…it’s road construction season.

I finally pulled into Boone around 8 pm…and arrived at the hotel about 2 hours before my wife and kids arrived.

DAY 14

This was the last day of the trip, and I was sad to see it come to an end. The weather forecast called for heavy rain and thunderstorms later in the afternoon. Plus it was supposed to be hot as balls all day. I decided to get an early start in an attempt to make it home before the weather hit.

I let the wife and kids sleep in again, and I was on the road heading south by 7am. I would make it home by 2 pm if I kept a steady pace.

A couple hours into the ride it began to get miserably hot. I stopped about every 45 minutes to drink water and cool off. I was feeling it. Furthermore, the seat on the Goldwing was getting to me. I really didn’t have an issue with the seat for most of the trip. But today was rough…I was getting butt burn and numbness. Perhaps it was because of the insane heat I was dealing with. Either way that expensive Ultimate Seat that my fellow Goldwing riders recommend was starting to look more and more appealing. My philosophy on such things is simple…motorcycling is what I do for my enjoyment. If I’m not enjoying it then I’m not doing it correctly. So if I have to shell out some cash to make my ride more enjoyable then I do it…it’s as simple as that!

I was ready to be home so I stuck to the interstate and put the hammer down on the wing. I made good time and literally pulled into my driveway just as the sky opened up and it began pouring. I pushed the wing into the garage as thunder clapped and lightning flashed. It felt amazing to take off my gear and drink cold water…I was soaked from sweat and rain and happy to be home!

All told I logged about 3,500 miles on this trip. The Goldwing handled as expected…no issues and a perfect mount for a midwest run! I made a lot of memories on this trip, and I’m already looking forward to the next one!

It was good to be home!