Life has been a hectic! Between school, work, and juggling family needs I have had very little time for myself. The summer felt like a blur, and it’s hard to believe that autumn is already in full swing. Autumn…that means one thing…time to get my knees in the breeze again! For this quick 4-day ride I decided to explore West Virginia and check out the fall colors. My buddy Chris joined me on this trip as well. We’ve known each other for a while now and we have a lot in common…we’re both veterans, have the same sarcastic sense of humor, and both love motorcycles of all shapes and sizes. I always have a blast when I’m riding with Chris…good food, lots of laughs, and just winging it…what could possibly go wrong?
I chose the Goldwing for this ride. To be honest, I felt a little guilty for choosing the wing over the BMW RT. It’s technically the RT’s turn and I typically alternate my steeds for my long rides. I like to make sure each bike is getting adequate ride time…plus I don’t want any of the bikes getting jealous or feeling weird about being left out. But ever since my summer ride to northern Michigan the Goldwing left me wanting more time in the saddle. She’s simply sublime and the miles just melt away. I’m never exhausted after a long day in the saddle when I’m on the wing.
So the Goldwing it is!
DAY 1
It was still dark when I rolled out of bed. I wanted to hit the road and get to Columbia before Friday traffic hit. It was mid-October and a lot of folks head to the mountains to check out the leaves this time of year…I wanted to be far ahead of them. My goal today was to stay at the High Country Motorcycle Camp near Ferguson, NC. It was only about a 300 mile ride, and 100 of them would be on the boring interstate riding up to Columbia.
My buddy Chris sent me a text stating that he would meet up with me in Ferguson later as he wanted to attend a school function for his son. That’s one of the many reasons why Chris is one of the good ones, his family comes first and it’s never a question!
I figured I would arrive in Ferguson long before Chris, which would allow me time to work on some homework and get some work done at a coffee shop.
I kissed my wife goodbye and tried my best not to wake her up…I failed.
“Have a good ride hun, be careful and call me when you get there!”
“Always careful babe and I will.”
I finished putting on my gear and opened the garage door. It was crisp and it felt amazing! The Goldwing was already loaded and eager to roll…her temp guage read 46 degrees and the moon was still shining bright as I pointed her headlights towards Columbia.
The Goldwing was loaded and ready for an early morning roll out.
Traffic was light as I hopped on the interstate. The Goldwing settled into a smooth hum and comfortably whisked me along. I set the cruise control to 80 and turned on the heated grips and heated seat. I’m always amazed at how comfortable the wing is in these situations. The miles simply melt away and the bike always feels planted even when overtaking big rigs. I was also grateful for the wind protection on the Goldwing…it was chilly and the temperature dropped a few more degrees as the sky turned from black to grey.
An hour and twenty minutes later I pulled into Columbia and stopped for coffee and breakfast. I always get excited when I roll into Columbia because in my mind it’s when the real riding begins! It’s a mental thing for me but I think it’s because I finally get off the interstate and away from the city.
The route I chose from Columbia to Ferguson was just over 200 miles…all back roads and mostly filled with a lot of hills and curves….perfect!
It took a minute to get through Columbia due to rush hour traffic, and I couldn’t help but notice the drab look on the faces of the folks sitting in their cars. Most of them were probably on their way to work and none of them looked very thrilled. It made me thankful to be on my bike and I found myself reflecting on how fortunate I am. I thank God that my life has been filled with countless blessings and I don’t take it lightly!
The traffic cleared once I got out of the city and the Wing settled into a nice relaxing pace as I headed north towards Ferguson. The sky was brilliant blue without a cloud in sight. The cool air felt refreshing, and I was warm and cozy in my Aerostitch jacket and pants with the heated seat and grips turned to the high setting.
The cool morning air and light traffic made for a perfect ride.
I found myself appreciating the comfort and airflow of my new Arai Ram-X helmet. In most situations, my go-to helmet is my Shoei Neotec III. It’s extremely comfortable and quiet and is the perfect helmet when I’m riding any other bike but the Wing. My Neotec is simply too stuffy when riding the wing. I wanted something that allowed a little more airflow and a wider field of vision and the Arai Ram-X hit all the marks. It is a 3/4 face helmet that is really light, comfortable, and allows a ton of airflow.
The 4 lane highway eventually turned into 2 lanes as I entered the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. Traffic was light and I was thoroughly enjoying the ride. I rolled by multiple farms that looked peaceful and quiet. A few weeks earlier I’m sure these farms were busy with fall harvest.
The farms and beautiful rolling hills as you enter the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains.
I rode non-stop until I pulled into Lenoir, NC…about 40 minutes away from my campground (High Country Motorcycle Camp). The wing was on empty and I was ready for a break. Lenoir is a neat little town northwest of Hickory, and just big enough to have pretty much everything a guy needs. I filled the wing, and pulled into a Starbucks to knock out some homework.
I checked in with Chris and he said he was about 2 hrs out. Just enough time for me to finish my tasks and enjoy a cup of coffee. Chris rolled into town just in time for dinner so we ate at a Longhorn steak house and planned our riding routes. We headed out of town and rode towards the campground with only an hour or so of daylight left.
The ride to the campground was epic! The road twisted and turned and brought us deep into the mountains. Incidentally, there was a rodeo taking place right next to the campground. There were folks parked along both sides of the road and in the fields, the small town rodeo was definitely the place to be!
The High Country Motorcycle Campground, on the other hand, was quiet and peaceful. We pulled into the campground and I was thoroughly impressed! I had reserved a little cabin that had a covered parking area for the Goldwing. The campground hosts (Maggie & Brent) greeted us with the warmth and hospitality rarely experienced anywhere else besides the south. We visited for a while and they made sure I had everything I needed for a comfortable stay.
The cabins as you pull into the High Country Motorcycle Campground
After our visit about motorcycles and the rodeo, the Maggie and Brent went back to their house and Chris hopped on his BMW and headed for his hotel.
I essentially had the campground to myself with the exception of a few folks that were working at the rodeo. I had zero cell service and the only sound was the occasional faint applause heard coming from the direction of the rodeo. Sound travels funny in the mountains…this is especially true in the fall and winter when the foliage is mostly gone. The sound bounces off the trees and rocks and travels like the wind which makes it almost eerie. Sometimes the cheers sounded miles away, other times it sounded like I was in the stands with the fans.
The campground was peaceful and clean. I parked the wing next to my cabin, brewed up a cup of tea, and relaxed in the cool evening.
My little cabin where I sat on the porch and enjoyed a cup of tea.
After a while, the rodeo ended and the cheering stopped. I finished my tea and walked around the campground. There is a creek that passes through the property, and a pond behind the cabins. It truly is a gem of a campground for a long rider!
A little creek flows through the campground
This pond sits behind the row of cabins
I decided to call it a night once it turned dark. I took a hot shower in the bathhouse and retreated to my tiny cabin. I opened the windows and crawled into my sleeping bag. I fell asleep quickly to the sound of croaking frogs, crickets, and an owl hooting somewhere up in the mountains.
Home sweet home! Fresh mountain air, a bubbling creek, and an owl hoot echoing in the mountains made for good sleeping.
DAY 2
I rolled out of bed before the sun came up. It was downright brisk, hovering around 40 degrees. I fired up my jet boil and brewed myself a cup of coffee. I was excited to hit the road since we would be riding on some epic roads.
I enjoyed my coffee while I packed my gear. The camp host (Brent) rolled up on a golf cart with a big thermos of coffee. He offered me a cup and I respectfully declined since I already had a cup and Chris and I had a plan to meet in town for breakfast in Wilkesboro…about a 30 minute ride away. This country needs more folks like Brent and Maggie at The High Country Motorcycle Camp…we would have a lot less problems!
Enjoyed a cup of coffee while I packed my gear. It was chilly!
Taking in the early morning cool mountain air before heading out.
Once my gear was packed and my coffee cup was empty I threw on my helmet and hit the starter button on the Goldwing. She fired up and I was thankful I wasn’t on my old Guzzi or my BMW. The Goldwing is quiet and sounds sort of like a sewing machine. The folks still sleeping in the cabins next to me probably didn’t even hear me leave.
I put the grip and seat heater setting to high, and slowly rolled out of the campground. The sweet smell of autumn was thick in the air as I made my way towards Wilkesboro. The road twisted and snaked through the valleys and hills.
Thirty minutes later I pulled into Cagney’s restaurant and got us a seat. Chris pulled up after a few minutes and we enjoyed a surprisingly delicious breakfast. Cagney’s is the place to go if you’re ever in Wilkesboro!
We finished our breakfast and decided to work our way north towards Wytheville, VA. We stuck to backroads and we were treated to some of the best riding in the region. There was very little traffic and the roads were rarely straight. We made good time…only stopping a couple times for pictures and bathroom breaks. No music was needed…the ride was plenty entertaining.
Traffic was light and the riding was amazing!
We stopped for a short break once we reached Wytheville, then continued working our way towards Beckley, WV. We once again stuck to the backroads and purposely selected the most indirect route.
We gained elevation as we entered WV, and some of the roads were downright sketchy. The roads up here are no more curvy and hilly than the famous riding roads in NC and TN. The difference is that many of the corners are littered with scree and gravel. If the speed limit coming into a curve says 15mph…you better not hit that curve any faster. More than once I felt the front end of the Wing wobble as I hit patches of gravel and loose rocks.
Beautiful mountain scenery in WV.
We continued to work our way north and enjoyed many miles of epic riding despite the few sketchy areas of road. As the saying goes, time flies when you’re having fun and it was already late afternoon when it dawned on us that we still had a bit of a haul before we reached our destination.
I planned on staying at the Arrowhead Bike Farm in Fayetteville, WV, and Chris was going to grab a nearby hotel. We still had at least an hour of riding left, and I wanted to get there while it was still daylight…it’s not much fun setting up camp in the dark.
Chris and I stopped and filled up the bikes and grabbed pizza to-go from Dominoes for dinner. We quickly ate outside the gas station then hammered down north towards Shady Spring, then Beckley, then Oak Hill, and finally Fayetteville.
We made good time, but I was exhausted from man-handling the big Goldwing on those sketchy mountain roads. The roads up here are perfect for the RT and Chris’s GS. The wing is more than capable but not as effortless. At any rate, I was ready to get to my camp and get some rest.
It was a little past six when I finally pulled into the Arrowhead Bike Farm. The place was packed! Unbeknownst to me there was a major 24hr mountain bike race happening…and the Arrowhead Bike Farm was the start and the finish point. The race was scheduled to end at midnight, and by the looks of it these folks were serious about the race. Decked out camper vans littered the entire campground while competitors and family members milled about.
My campsite was located on the backside of the campground so I had to ride through the crowd to get there. Alas I pulled into Site 18 and parked the wing…I was glad to be done for the day. I set up camp, brewed some hot tea, and relaxed in my camping chair while the sun set.
Camp set up and relaxed with a cup of tea while the sun set.
It gets dark quickly when the sun sets in the mountains, and tonight was no exception. I barely had a chance to drink my tea before I was pulling out my flashlight. The front office was all out of firewood due to the large crowd so there was nothing else to do except to wash up and get some sleep. That proved to be easier said than done.
The young family in the camp site next to mine had a young child…maybe a year old but likely younger. I love that they were getting out and enjoying quality time as a family…but that poor baby cried for most of the night. What made it even worse is that there was a dog on the other side of the camp that was obviously concerned for the crying child….baby would cry, dog would bark…and on it went into the wee hours of the morning.
DAY 3
It was cold…it dipped into the 30s overnight and although I couldn’t sleep, I was at least comfortable and warm. I crawled out of my tent and brewed up some coffee…I was going to need it after the rough night. I messaged Chris and he said he slept like a baby and was on his way…I was glad that at least one of us was well rested!
The family next to me was already awake and packing up their camp…or perhaps they didn’t sleep at all. The baby was still fussy and probably cold. The older kids were helping their dad pack and they were quite efficient. Within a few minutes they were loaded up and rolling out.
I enjoyed my coffee while I packed my gear. It was cold and my hands were stiff causing me to fumble with the zippers and straps. I was securing my Motofizz seat bag when I heard the unmistakable sound of a BMW boxer engine rumbling through the campground…Chris pulled up bright eyed, bushy tailed and ready to roll.
Chris was ready to roll…I was moving slow
I finally finished getting ready and we pulled out of the campground. We rode into town and pulled into a Starbucks for breakfast. It was a good opportunity to give the sun a chance to warm things up…it was hovering around 40 degrees but was supposed to reach the 60s which is perfect riding weather.
Yeah…a BMW at a Starbucks…a rare sight indeed!
We decided to explore WV a little before heading south towards home. We were only a few miles away from the infamous New River Gorge Bridge so we went to check that out first. It didn’t disappoint!
We first rode over the bridge, then pulled off and took a narrow side road which snaked its way under the bridge. We stopped for a few minutes and took in the view…what an amazing place!!
The underside of the bridge
Chris and his dependable steed
Me and the wing
The view from directly under the bridge
The narrow and winding one-way road that takes you under the bridge.
We finished exploring the Gorge Bridge and then worked our way north on Hwy 19 to Summersville, WV. Once we reached Summersville we turned east and headed towards Hillsboro.
We stuck to the backroads and enjoyed some epic riding. Riding the WV back country was dangerous for me simply due to the fact that it was hard to focus on the road because the scenery was simply stunning.
Riding through the West Virginia mountains treats a long rider with views like this.
Chris and I got into a nice rhythm and the miles began melting away. The roads climbed and dipped and twisted and turned through the countryside. The Goldwing and the BMW seemed to be perfectly synced as they waltzed with the road…Chris and I just happened to be the two chumps the bikes asked to dance with…it was motorcycle riding perfection.
The road climbed, dipped, twisted and turned through the countryside.
We kept working our way east and eventually turned south towards Virginia. Every road seemed to be perfect for riding.
Chris’s BMW somewhere in West Virginia
We finally stopped in Marlinton, WV for a break and a late lunch. We decided at that point to start heading south. The plan was to make it to Greensboro, NC for the night which meant we still had a few hours of riding ahead of us and daylight was fading fast.
We finished eating our “okay but not great” lunch and hit the road. We crossed the Virginia state line as the last bit of light disappeared.
Daylight was fading fast as we worked our way south.
Within minutes the sun dipped below the horizon and we were riding in darkness. Both the Goldwing and BMW have great headlights…but the kind of darkness found in the Appalachian mountains is a different beast. It swallows you and requires every bit of focus and attention as you’re constantly on the lookout for critters and blind curves.
The riding was slow and tedious and we stopped for gas and a break twice. It was mentally and physically taxing. We no doubt blindly passed through some beautiful countryside…next time I’ll ride through it during the day.
We were both relieved when we entered the Greensboro city limits. It was almost 10pm and we were both exhausted. The tension in my arms and shoulders melted as we pulled into the Holiday Inn Express. We checked into our rooms and I decided to forego dinner. I was simply too tired. I took a hot shower, messaged the wife, and promptly fell asleep. It was an amazing day!
DAY 4
Today was our last day of riding and there was no need for an early start since we only had about a 6 hr ride home. I rolled out of bed around 7:30 and went down to the fitness center for a nice little work out. Afterwards I enjoyed breakfast and took my time packing my gear. Chris and I decided to stick to the status quo and take the backroads home. North Carolina has some beautiful riding roads, and I was looking forward to enjoying every mile!
We were on the road by 10am, and we took our time as we headed south.
North Carolina backroads = perfection!
Eventually the roads became straighter and flatter as we headed into the low country. While the riding isn’t quite as exciting as the mountains, it’s still a great place to get your knees in the breeze. There’s no rush in the low country which makes the ride experience relaxing and peaceful.
Chris on his BMW as the roads became flatter and straighter
We rolled through North Carolina and crossed the South Carolina border in the early afternoon. Traffic was light and we were making good time. We decided to stop for lunch and gas in Bishopville, SC…about 2hrs away from home. We enjoyed an awesome burger at a little family-owned diner that made you feel as if you walked back in time. Next to the diner was an old abandoned house that made the feeling even more nostalgic.
An old abandoned house sat next to the diner…I wish I could have explored the inside
Once we got our fill of what Bishopville had to offer we hopped on our bikes and completed our journey home. The last couple hours of the trip was uneventful and relaxing. Chris split off and headed home to his family and I finally pulled into the garage in time for dinner.
What an awesome ride it was and I can’t wait for the next one!
